Tuesday 14 October 2014

Elizabethan hair accessories:

In our hair class on the 9th October we looked at some hairstyles and accessories worn by the Elizabethan women, here are some of the things we looked at.


The caul is a big hair net or round piece of material gathered to a band or ribbon with pearls and embroidery which was attached to the back of the head and secured with buns and/or plaits and pins.


The french hood is a stiff rounded hat like headpiece with a veil attached at the back. They can be simple or plain or very elaborate decorated with pearls, ribbon or netting. Head accessories were used as a big part of the whole outfit and outfits would often match them.


 The attifet is similar to the french hood however instead of being rounded it is heart shaped and has a point in the middle that comes down onto the forehead. It accentuates the heart shaped hairstyle worn by a lot of wealthy and important women during The Golden Age, including Queen Elizabeth I herself.


The pillbox hat is a small round structured hat with a flat top and straight up sides worn on the crown/towards the back of the head which was heavily decorated with pearls, jewels and embroidery. It could also be worn with a veil-like piece of material attached to the back.


The coif is a close fitting cap that conceals the hair made out of light fabric usually in white or a light colour or silk for the richer people. It was worn by the people of higher and also lower class. It was worn alone but also commonly under other headpieces like the french hood.

In all of the Elizabethan portraits I have noticed that everyone it seems wore a straight middle parting. No one had fringes during this era and it was fashionable to have a high hairline. Queen Elizabeth I used to shave her hairline as to have a larger forehead symbolised wisdom and intelligence. Below are some illustrations I found on Google of Elizabethan hair styles which show the high hairline, some of the hats and headpieces I spoke about in this post and some of the most recognisable Tudor hair styles that are seen in the paintings.




Project brief / Redheads & Royalty

Our project brief for hair is 'Redheads and Royalty' based on the hairstyles of the Elizabethan period. We have to gather research and look at historical images online and from books of hairstyles and techniques used by the women of 'The Golden Age' and how they created such elaborate and amazing hairstyles, to eventually design and create our very own contemporary hairstyle inspired by that era. I will also be looking into what hair styles and colours determined age and status from the period. In class we will be taught about the historically accurate hairstyles and will be learning to create them, and we will be using these skills, techniques and the knowledge we learn to create a unique and modern version. My journey to my final design will be recorded on this blog including all my research, imagery and inspiration.

Plaits & Buns inspiration

In our first practical lesson we learn't how to do french plaits, fishtail plaits and structured buns without using a doughnut. I have always been able to do a regular and also fishtail so was just practising and trying to be quicker and neater, however I was over the moon to have finally mastered the skill of a french plait! Despite it not being perfectly neat and taking a while, I have been trying to teach myself for years! Below are some images of creative plaits and buns I would like to try out in the future when I am more experienced and confident with hair.


Sunday 12 October 2014

Wednesday 2nd October 2014 - Introduction to period hair

In our first lesson with we looked at how modern hair styles have been influenced by the styles of different periods and how styles always come back into fashion, even if it doesn't look much like the original version. We looked at some images of examples where different designers have taken inspiration from different periods and incorporated it in to the hair and make-up for their shows.

At John Galliano's SS 2011 show there was a clear 1920's influence going on with the hair and make-up, there were glittery finger waves, thinly drawn on eyebrows and dark lips drawn within the lip line with an accentuated cupids bow. The attention to detail really made me laugh as you can see a piece of string going around the back of the models head, attached by a small piece of tape on each side of her forehead, in the 20's people would do this to create the illusion of a face lift. I absolutely love the finger waves and how structured they are, as a huge fan of glitter and all that sparkles I love that to make it even more modern the artists added glitter to the hair. 



The iconic 20's finger waves were also worn by fashion diva and model, Tyra Banks. Compared to the John Galliano show this look is more classic and wearable. This proves that not only being an iconic and vintage hair style, it can also be made high fashion and into a red carpet glamour look.





We also briefly looked at the 60's beehive briefly, most recently worn by Amy Winehouse. The beehive was her signature look alongside the equally over the top 50's eyeliner flick. Over time Amys beehive and eyeliner seemed to get bigger and bigger, sometimes verging on ridiculous! 



John Paul Gaultier gave a tribute to Amy Winehouse in his SS 2012 haute couture show where all the models had the unmistakable Winehouse beehive and eyeliner flick. I loved this show, as a fan of Amy Winehouse and John Paul Gaultiers fashion shows, the make-up and hair was amazing as expected. The fact each wig was different and brightly coloured made it stand out more and was different to having a more toned down, neutral colour.






 As our project is The New Elizabethans we then went on to look at Vivienne Westwood's work. The Elizabethan era and Queen Elizabeth I was a big inspiration to Westwood, this shows in this portrait of her looking uncannily like Elizabeth, in a way that is quite comical. The pearls around her neck, the pose and the shape of the collar she is wearing encourages you to think about Elizabeth when you look at this image, however to me it is the shape, adornment and style of the hair that makes me think about the Elizabethan era in this image.

  
 I love this image as I adore the Elizabethan inspired corset from her collection. The embellishment and colours used on the boots and corset really remind me of something that Elizabeth would have worn if she was alive and reigning today. The pearls worn around the neck and in the hair reminds me of the Elizabethan era as in almost all portraits created in that time, pearls were to be seen somewhere. When you first look at the make-up and hair you know straight away that it was influenced by the Elizabethan times due to the snow white skin, pinched pink cheeks and stained lips with minimal eye and eyebrow make-up which was the look of the time. I like the shades of pink used on the cheeks and lips as it compliments the other colours in the image really well and also stands out as it is the only pink used. The hair somewhat resembles the heart shaped style often seen worn by Queen Elizabeth I in her portraits, I'm not sure how, but I do see it, maybe because of the pearls and crown adornment and the bright orange hair which was Elizabeths signature look. I love the modern take on this period hairstyle, the colour stands out and works so well with the image and the hair appears to have been rik rak set to create this cotton wool like, afro hair style. The texture of the hair was very important to the Elizabethans and I think this was really took on board when deciding how to style the hair for this theme on shoot.



After doing some more research on the internet here are some more hair designs from fashion shows that are heavily influenced by the Elizabethans.


This image is from Corrie Nielsens A/W show inn 2011 called "A Winters Melodie". The garments featured bustles, elaborate collars, puffed sleeves and corsets all inspired by the 1500's, and the hair was in the Elizabethan heart shape, with a back-combed and messy texture. The model in the image above also has red which makes it look even more Elizabethan. The make-up is a subtly paler skin, slightly tinted lips with toned down eyebrows and a understated smokey eye. I think the hair is what makes this look stand of most as an Elizabethan inspired look due to the undeniable heart shaped red hairstyle. I really like that it is quite untidy and not too structured, compared to how Queen Elizabeth I would have worn hers.




This image is from Alexander McQueens 2007 SS show, I absolutely adore this whole look. The dress, the make-up, the hair and the flowers are all so feminine. I chose this image as although being a lot more subtle than the Corrie Nielsen image, the hair and make-up still looks quite Elizabethan to me. The face is very fresh and quite bare however still made to be quite pale, yet still looking very pretty. The hair is in the Elizabethan heart shape however quite loose, not very structured and more wearable than any of the other Elizabethan era influenced looks I have seen so far during my research. This is my favourite at the moment, it is so elegant and still quite elaborate with the textured, teased look.


Below is another image I found from a 2008 Alexander McQueen show, I found the hair to be a lot more dramatic than the look above and still reminded me of the Elizabethan era. The hair has the heart shape going on in very tight, frizzy curls. It looks very structured and the parting in the middle is very straight with the roots on either side slicked down flat to the head.



Below is another image of Tyra Banks, this time dressed in Alexander McQueen to pay tribute to him after he passed away. This look is more focused on the clothing and accessories than the hair and the make-up however there is still a clear likeness to Queen Elizabeth I in the colour of the hair and the tight curls. The make-up is also subtly Elizabethan in a fashion way, the skin is lighter than usual, and the cheeks and lips are tinted soft red.